New halyard jammer basis 2011

One thing I never liked about the JOD ist the chaotic appearance of the halyards and trimming ropes on the coach roof. Also the base plate has been deformed and the jammers were worn out, so...

I took the plate out and covered it with 2 layers of e glass. Instead of painting I covered it with another layer of carbon. At least the boat should LOOK light.

The handles are very, very practical, as I am sailing singlehanded most of the time.

Miscellaneous small projects winter 2010:

Keel sole repair:

Jocker's keel sole showed some cracks after getting her our of the water 2009. I paniked and instantly opened the cracks. The laminate was full of voids. I took of some 3-4 mm and laminated everything with epoxy and 420g biaxial e-glass layer. Pictures later.

New deck bulleye

The old one was leaking again, so I replaced it with new Polycarbonate and also a stainless 1.5mm frame (cut with waterjet technology, 70 €)

New pantry cupboard

The doors of the old one had always fallen out. The new one has 5mm Polycarbonate doors. (approx 50 €, 10 hrs)

New starboard cupboard

The original one was open and a bit shabby. It had to go out.

This is the new one. 2 shelfs inside. Very practical (15 hrs, approx 80 €)

The top of the electrical diverter box was replaced as well.

The electric panel was redesigned, all electrical connections were exchanged. Also I installed a 20A Charger underneath the chart table. The remote for the new autopilot was connected to the Seatalk network.

The main cabin bunks were upgraded with liners of 10x70mm teak and overhauled with white paint. Now the cushions do not slide to leeward and it looks a bit nicer. (60 €, 8 hrs)

On starboard I took out the main Diesel hose as it was leaking. Also the diesel pump had to go. It was leaking as well and you can only exchange the whole assembly (120 EUR pump, 70 EUR for the hose)

The edges of the rear cabin bulkhead were worn out a bit and so I made a tiny moulded protector from epoxy which also protects the bulkhead from cracking

(20 hrs, 15 €).

The chart table was reinforced from below as it was not too stiff. (6 €)


The biggest change. I got myself an SPX 10 and Type 1 linear drive from Raymarine. For Christmas I surprised myself with an S100 remote.

This is the selfmade lever for the drive. Drawings available upon request.

The socket underneath the cockpit edge.

The pilot on starboard. Setting up the system was a bit complicated as the instructions are too well made. I was getting desperate as the pilot could not get wind data from the vane. The manual suggested to check all connections. So I rewired the fu.... thing again. Later at night I woke up, drove to the boat and set up the pilot according to the vessel type "sailboat" and got the requested signal....

First test at 16 kts of wind. PERFECT. In the picture my wife who enjoys the new luxury not being blamed anymore for less speed or helming style ;-)

I have covered the cockpit floor wuth lightgrey topcat (Yachtcare Antirutsch). I can really recommend this material. It improves safety a lot and looks nice as well. The rear cockpitbar was also overhauled as it has been pierced many times by previous owners. I now carries the control unit ST6002. Make sure not to forget it is mounted in the wrong direction!!! On the tiller you can see a rope which I have conected with the socket of the main sheet. This protects the pilot drive unit from damages, e.g. when you drive backwords and the rudders slams to one side.

Another big change was the exchange of the propeller (14x9") against another system by Maxprop, which I have adjusted to 15x12". Now I can go 6.5 kts in flat water. Inside the propeller is a gear. On assembly you can choose the pitch. 12" is a bit too much. Now the engine creates a lot of torque but does not get to max rpm. But still a huge improvement. Next year I will change to 15x11".

This cover is made from PVC and quite practical, when the stove is off, of course.

Next projects: Conical gennaker pole, ballast tanks.